About Moisture or Vapor Barriers
One process or solution for creating a proper moisture/vapor barrier is to utilize 6 ml plastic on the ground and to insulate the basement, craw space, and/or foundation.
* Of coarse the ground or foundation should have proper drainage for this to work properly.
The plastic and the insulation will eliminate any moisture problems in the crawlspace, such as water droplets collecting on the concrete walls and pipes.
Other Barriers and Solutions
Damp Basement, Crawlspace and/or Foundation Solution
If you have moisture or water collecting on the pipes and concrete walls in the crawlspace, then you're experiencing a common problem. Many existing structures, buildings and homes have ventilation openings which were designed to flush out moisture from crawlspaces, but they often don't do the job, except in very dry climates.
* Warning: During humid summer conditions, ventilation under a structure, building or home can often make matters worse. The humid air carries moisture in that condenses on the cool walls, the pipes and even the underside of floors.
The best solution in really cold, humid, and/or wet climates is to completely close up the vents (or omit them in new construction) and control crawlspace moisture in other ways. Due to the fact that local and regional conditions vary and the exact details of this system may not work in every crawlspace or for every foundation. You might also want to check the local Building Codes or with the local Building Inspector before taking any steps.
* Limit the number of stakes used, a few holes won't make any difference in performance, and they'll drain puddles if a heavy rain or leaky pipe leaves water on the plastic; at the same time too many holes and well, they will defeat the purpose.
This not only insulates the walls or surface but also keeps rising dampness concrete or stone... from getting into the basement, crawlspace, frame or floor, foundation...
* If your more worried about Building Codes and Passing Inspections than your health and long term cost of holistic sustainability... Then I would probably recommend Thermax brand (available through lumberyards) because it doesn't require an additional Fire or Termite Barrier. Other common synthetic types of insulation may require a drywall covering according to Building Codes in your area. Though interestingly enough the toxins put off by these synthetic types of insulation when it burns can be very Toxic.
The alternative is Rigid Hemp Insulation and another layer of plastic and capped off with heavy aluminum foil taped at the seams with aluminum tape for a better more sustainable and healthier result.
A good book written on the subject of natural alternatives in sustainable building such as Making Better Buildings: A Comparative Guide to Sustainable Construction for Homeowners and Contractors ~
* Of coarse the ground or foundation should have proper drainage for this to work properly.
The plastic and the insulation will eliminate any moisture problems in the crawlspace, such as water droplets collecting on the concrete walls and pipes.
Other Barriers and Solutions
Damp Basement, Crawlspace and/or Foundation Solution
If you have moisture or water collecting on the pipes and concrete walls in the crawlspace, then you're experiencing a common problem. Many existing structures, buildings and homes have ventilation openings which were designed to flush out moisture from crawlspaces, but they often don't do the job, except in very dry climates.
* Warning: During humid summer conditions, ventilation under a structure, building or home can often make matters worse. The humid air carries moisture in that condenses on the cool walls, the pipes and even the underside of floors.
The best solution in really cold, humid, and/or wet climates is to completely close up the vents (or omit them in new construction) and control crawlspace moisture in other ways. Due to the fact that local and regional conditions vary and the exact details of this system may not work in every crawlspace or for every foundation. You might also want to check the local Building Codes or with the local Building Inspector before taking any steps.
- Create good drainage around your home or structure to keep rainwater from flowing in or moisture from standing under the structure or building. Sloping the soil away from the structure or building at about 1/2 in. per foot is usually one of the best things you can do to reduce crawlspace or foundation moisture.
- Cover the dirt/cement/stone,... basement, crawlspace or foundation with a plastic moisture barrier. Overlap any seams and tape them, bringing the plastic about 6 in. up the wall and fastening it there. You can stake the plastic down with landscape fabric stakes or lay stones or bricks on it to keep it in place. If your working in or constructing a crawl space you might want to keep in mind, chances are more than likely, someone maybe even you, will have to slide around in the crawlspace later to fix a pipe or run a new cable.
* Limit the number of stakes used, a few holes won't make any difference in performance, and they'll drain puddles if a heavy rain or leaky pipe leaves water on the plastic; at the same time too many holes and well, they will defeat the purpose.
- Next, Cover or Cap exposed exterior basement, crawlspace and/or foundation walls or surface with 1-1/2 in. of rigid, moisture-proof insulation.
This not only insulates the walls or surface but also keeps rising dampness concrete or stone... from getting into the basement, crawlspace, frame or floor, foundation...
* If your more worried about Building Codes and Passing Inspections than your health and long term cost of holistic sustainability... Then I would probably recommend Thermax brand (available through lumberyards) because it doesn't require an additional Fire or Termite Barrier. Other common synthetic types of insulation may require a drywall covering according to Building Codes in your area. Though interestingly enough the toxins put off by these synthetic types of insulation when it burns can be very Toxic.
The alternative is Rigid Hemp Insulation and another layer of plastic and capped off with heavy aluminum foil taped at the seams with aluminum tape for a better more sustainable and healthier result.
- Insulate the rim joists. I recommend Rigid Hemp Insulation caulked into place to stop air leaks and then capped in plastic and aluminum foil.
- Cap the interior of the basement, crawlspace, foundation wall... with a 6-mil layer of plastic and galvanized {= metal, aluminum,... } flashing {= capped} both to block moisture and to serve as a termite barrier. There is no real sure solution for termites; be aware, that building codes may require different details or solutions for termite control in your region.
A good book written on the subject of natural alternatives in sustainable building such as Making Better Buildings: A Comparative Guide to Sustainable Construction for Homeowners and Contractors ~
So your in the pre-construction processes and/or building your foundation and you want to construct a natural Moisture/Vapor Barrier and/or Termite Barrier that avoids utilizing chemicals and plastics? You can do this by utilizing sand in place of plastic; unless your building or constructing on sand, which then somewhat depends on the type of foundation you build.
You might be building a stone building with a wooden floor; the solution(s) below, may be applied to many different types of foundations.
Natural Moisture/Vapor/Termite Barrier Solution - Particle Barrier(s)
Particle Barrier(s)
A natural Particle Barrier made from sand or basaltic rock aka BTB to help reduce access.
Particle barriers should be used in conjunction with other methods of moisture/vapor/termite control to protect your home effectively. As particle barriers are primarily designed to help keep termites out – not control termites once they get there. Particle barriers work best in climates where the soil is stable and compacted. Particle barriers can double as moisture or vapor barriers under the right climate and soil conditions. The soil surface should be smooth below the BTB and not readily expandable. Soils that expand when wet are more likely to create gaps in particle barriers.
Any type of natural solid stable stone/cement particle size 1.8 - 2.8 millimeters can work for a particle barrier.
Sand
According to research termites are unable to build tunnels through sand when the particles are between 2.0 and 2.8 millimeters. The larger particles are too big for a termite to move, and the smaller particles fill in the spaces between the larger pieces of sand so that termites cannot burrow. Sand barriers are not recommended for all climates or types of construction.
Sand can serve as one component of a Termite Barrier. Since sand/particle barriers are designed to help keep termites out – not control termites once they get there.
Sand barriers have been used primarily in places like Hawaii during pre-construction to help protect homes from Formosan termites mainly. Sand particles come in different sizes, and not all sizes of sand block a termite’s path. There are a few species of termites that function well in naturally-occurring loose sand, in areas where these species are active, Building Codes and pest control experts may recommend combining a sand barrier with a termiticide application to the soil.
* As in most cases where Barriers are concerned Post-construction application is not as effective as pre-construction application.
- Installation of Sand Particle Barrier
The sand should be installed as a uniform 4-inch thick, 20-inch wide layer around the foundation to be effective.
Basaltic Rock
Basalt is a common volcanic rock. When small pieces of basaltic rock are compacted together, they can form a barrier that can prevent termites from entering your home. Basalt is crushed to particles that measure 1.6 to 2.5 millimeters to be used for a BTB, particles that are large enough that termites cannot move them and small enough to fill gaps so termites cannot crawl between them. BTB is a chemical-free termite barrier. It does not control a termite population; it simply helps block a termites’ access to a home.
- Installation and Maintenance for Basaltic Termite Barriers
BTB, is not recommended for all homes. Installation follows basically the same rules in thickness and width as sand particle barriers, though BTB can be more difficult and expensive to maintain and install.
To maintain consistent size of particles in the barrier, construction crews must take care not to mix the barrier particles with soil during installation. The BTB will not be effective if it is contaminated with dirt or construction dust.
* Homeowners should consult with their pest professional on tips to avoid damaging the BTB with future construction or landscaping. Roots from landscape plants can cause problems. If roots grow into the BTB, termites can eat along the roots and find their way through the barrier. Some basaltic termite barriers are installed with Biobarrier, which prevents root penetration.
Yes, yet one more Barrier to explore, the Biobarrier
Basaltic termite barriers are common in places like Hawaii, where basalt is plentiful. It is not considered a sustainable practice to transport basalt to the continental U.S., when there are other preventative measures and natural materials which can be used.
It is the size and stability of the particle that is important.
** Warning: Living in a moldy environment can be Toxic! Living in a chemical filled environment can also be Toxic! Termites can be Toxic to wood!